A mouthwatering mixture of rice, potatoes, carrots, radishes and crumbed chicken or pork, there’s nothing quite like a big bowl of katsu curry. Today, this dish is synonymous with Japanese cuisine, so much so that it has become a go-to staple for so many restaurants here in Australia.
The invention, evolution, and rise in popularity of this dish is both remarkable and fascinating. In this article, we’re going to take you on a journey into the fascinating history of how the katsu curry grew from obscurity to become one of Japan’s favourite comfort foods.
Hajimemashou 始めましょう!
Early History
The first ever katsu curry is actually a little difficult to pinpoint, with different sources presenting their own estimations of how and when the dish was first made.
However, the general consensus is that it was first introduced anywhere between the late 1800s and the early 1940s. There are multiple different theories of how the dish first came to be. To understand its origins, of course, we first have to understand the story of Japanese curry.
During the Meiji period (1868-1912), foreign influence was beginning to have a major effect on the entire nation. One area this directly translated to was cuisine, as Japan began to adopt many cultural influences from Europe, the USA, and other regions across the world.
Some historians believe that katsu curry actually came to Japan through the British via India. British-style curry gradually evolved into something quite different from the spicy curries associated with Indian cuisine. Japanese curry, on the other hand, became milder, thicker and sweeter, often served with rice as a hearty meal.
Where Does “Katsu” Come in?
The word "katsu" comes from "katsuretsu", the Japanese adaptation of the English word "cutlet". Tonkatsu, made by coating pork in breadcrumbs before deep-frying it, became popular in Japan around the late 19th century.
At some point, these two beloved foods found their way onto the same plate.
The exact origin of katsu curry is disputed, with several Tokyo restaurants claiming to have created it. One of the best-known stories comes from Ginza Swiss, which says Yomiuri Giants baseball player Shigeru Chiba asked for a pork cutlet to be placed directly on his curry in 1948. Other restaurants claim the combination appeared earlier, including Kawakin in Asakusa and Ōroji in Shinjuku.
The exact origin story might remain up for debate, but the winning combination was anything but controversial. Crispy, golden katsu, rich curry and fluffy rice proved to be a match made in heaven.
Katsu Curry Popularity Grows
Once katsu curry slowly found its way onto Japanese menus, its popularity really began to take off like wildfire.
As Western-style foods became more common, dishes such as tonkatsu became a uniquely Japanese take on European-inspired cuisine. Curry followed a similar path, evolving into a distinctly Japanese dish rather than simply copying the curries that had arrived from overseas.
From the 50s onward, Japanese curry had become a firm favourite across the country. Curry houses, family restaurants and school canteens helped introduce the dish to generations of diners.